Car buying checks

Buy a car from a dealer, otherwise check all the following yourself. Check the following paperworks:

1. The vehicle registration certification (V5C).
Typically a red and blue piece of paper, it shouldn’t be a photocopy or computer print out. And the document serial number needs to be checked

V5C checks:
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) same as stamped on the car
Engine number same as the one stamped on the car
Recorded keeper’s information is the same as the person selling the car

2. Examine the car’s service history
Ideally the previous owners of the car will have had the vehicle’s service book stamped by a garage each time it has been serviced. Better still (ещё лучше), there should be accompanying invoices that tally with the stamps and detail the work carried out. Even better still, the service book will have been filled out with the car’s VIN and engine numbers when it was first sold.

3. It’s a good idea to ask to see current and past MOT certificates. Every car over three years-old must have an MOT to help maintain its roadworthiness, and every certificate will show the car’s mileage when it was inspected, helping verify that it’s reliable. Validate vehicle MOT and road tax

4. Do a data check. A data check costs just £20 and can reveal if a car has been declared a write-off following accident or mechanical damage, or is owned by a finance company rather than the vendor.
It could be a car which is being sold because of debt by owner (outstanding finance) to a financial company. Drivers who buy such a car unwittingly face it being rightfully repossessed by the finance company.
Another is, car can be stolen and is possibly being passed off as another vehicle – known as cloning.

5. Pay for an expert inspection. I can ask Azad for a car inspection or take it to local garage and pay for inspection. Ask seller that buying condition if seller deducts the cost of inspection from the price of the car.

6. Get a receipt of purchase. Any reputable garage will provide a receipt for a used car but private sellers may not think to do so. Insist they do give you a receipt. It should list the make and model of car, registration number and VIN, mileage at the time of sale, agreed fee and dated signatures of both the vendor and purchaser.

7. Inspection checks:
Is the mileage consistent with the age and look of the car?
Check the mileage on the car against MOT tests certificates and service records if they have them.

Is the paint finish even, or can you see panels that look different?

Do the tyres have sufficient tread? If they are low they will need replacing either immediately as it’s illegal to drive if tyre thread is less than 1.6mm depth.

Is the spare tyre, jack and the vehicle’s toolkit present?

Are the seatbelts functioning and undamaged?

Do any fault lights appear on the dashboard? Check against the manual.

Are your washers and wipers functional?

Are all lights functioning? You may need someone else to help you with this, or simply ask the owner to activate them all while you inspect from outside.

Do all the locks, windows and internal controls for air conditioning, demister, radio and so on work properly?

Signs of rust:
Look in the boot and under the bonnet. Are there signs of unusual welding or rust?
Are there signs of rust under the footwell mats or under the car?

8. Test drive – Do the same route as on practical driving test from Pinner Driving Center to Bushey then back to Pinner via Northwood. Check steering wheel vibration, brakes, handbrake, how the car accelerate and speed 40 and 50 miles per hour drive

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